엄홍길 嚴弘吉
Mountaineer who climbed sixteen peaks of 8,000 m and above; head of the Um Hong-gil Human Foundation
| Life | 1960 |
| Era | 현대 |
| Clan | 영월 엄씨 |
Life & career
Um Hong-gil (born 1960) is a mountaineer who climbed Himalayan peaks over 8,000 m. His Wikipedia article states no seat but is categorized "Yeongwol Eom" and says he is a descendant of Eom Heung-do, who recovered Danjong's body; Namuwiki explains that he is not a direct descendant but a collateral one in the Toehyudang-gong line of the Bogya-gong branch. Born in Goseong, South Gyeongsang, he graduated from Hankuk University of Foreign Studies, studied physical education in graduate school and is introduced as a former member of the navy special forces UDT.
His 1985 Everest southwest-face expedition failed, and he reached the Everest summit in 1988. With Shishapangma in 2001 he completed all fourteen 8,000-m peaks, said to be the second Korean after Park Young-seok and ninth in the world. He climbed the satellite peak Yalung Kang (8,505 m) in 2004 and on 31 May 2007 climbed Lhotse Shar by its south face, recording what is called the "world first sixteen-peak completion". Lhotse Shar came after repeated failures, including in 2003 when an avalanche killed two companions 150 m below the summit.
In 2005 he led the Human Expedition to recover members who had died on Everest, found Park Mu-taek's body but could not bring it down and built a cairn. Through the Um Hong-gil Human Foundation he built Human Schools and hospitals in remote Nepal, and received the 2020 Manhae Prize in the practice category among other honors. Also noted are criticism that "sixteen peaks" is an expression used only in Korea while overseas mountaineering media count fourteen, and that his 1993 Shishapangma ascent is not recognized in international databases.
Lhotse Shar and the Human Expedition
Lhotse Shar failed in his first attempt in 2001, cost two companions in an avalanche 150 m below the summit in 2003 and failed again in 2006 before he reached it on his fourth try in 2007. The 2005 Human Expedition was formed to find Park Mu-taek, Baek Jun-ho and Jang Min, who had died on Everest; only Park Mu-taek's body was found and a cairn was built.
Assessment and Controversy
On the positive side his completion of the fourteen peaks and education and relief work in Nepal are noted, and he is said to describe summits as "borrowed" rather than "conquered". Controversies concern the "sixteen peaks" label and the Shishapangma record, so both are given.